Beef Fajita

Wow, another taco review coming out of nowhere. And oh, the drama that surrounds this one place! Those of you in the Austin area know all about the controversy that is Las Manitas, but that’s neither here nor there for we are discussing their tacos. I do remember that we, along with all of Austin for that matter, had to do a last minute dash to this place due to the fact it was going to close down. But they didn’t. They are still open and I for one am calling shenanigans!

Let me just get this right on out of the way – these tacos took me to a whole other level. They were insanely delicious, ginormously huge, and intensely intense. Well maybe not intensely intense… but pretty intense. I mean, just look at them!

They were kept simple and I appreciated that. Nothing fancy or odd (I’m looking in your direction, pineapple) to distract the taste buds from what this taco is all about – beef fajita. The meat was tender and delicious with that great grilled fajita kind of flavor. I was also amazed at the amount of guacamole on each taco. And less I not forget about the handmade corn tortillas which were cooked just to my liking (meaning not thick and rubbery).

I am really glad that the politics surrounding this place have died down and they are still alive and well. The food was great and I really loved that outside seating area in the back, which was almost like sitting in one of those bird houses at the zoo.

Pork al Pastor

The groups forth stop in the Tacogasm 2007 Tour was just – all the way back in 2007. What can I say, I’ve been busy. Or perhaps it is the fact that I was putting off writing this review just as much as I was putting off trying these tacos. You see, I have a deep seated issue with fruit mixed with savory components, add in the Pork and this is fear inducing! I’m no stranger to the pineapple and pork combination, or the “Hawaiian Pizza” as we call it on the street, but I was still a bit put off.

We hit up the North Austin location for Curra’s Grill, which funny enough is now closed down due to the fact they stopped paying their rent (or so the notice on the door once read). You can still hit up the Oltorf location and try their Tacos Al Pastor plate which consists of two tacos filled with rotisserie cook pork, served with cilantro, onions, the always delicious pinapple, and finally avocado sauce – which if I recall was delicious.

As I mentioned, we consumed these tacos a while back so I am going to deviate from my regular reviewing style and get a bit more personal on your ass. When the NW Austin location opened, Edward and I hit it up several times. We would always sit at the bar and pound a couple beers and get some food before we headed out looking for trouble. The first time we ate there, I ordered the appetizer sized quesadillas – al pastor style. To my surprise, not only did I find the delicious pork I was expecting, but also pineapple (which I was not). They were delicious!

As time went on, we went there less frequently due to a declining nature in the quality of their food. The last time we went there, specifically for this review, I believe it was the beginning of the end for this location. The tacos were OK at best, but the al pastor wasn’t nearly as good as it was the first time I had it. Thus, I am in a quandary. Are these tacos as good as I was expecting at the original location on Oltorf? I imagine they would be, and if that is the case, I would recommend them if you don’t mind the whole fruit + meat = awkwardness.

Monterey Jack and Mushroom

The third stop on the Tacogasm 2007 Tour brought together friends – both old and new. This was actually the groups second attempt to dine at this establishment. Upon arriving the first time, we were greeted with an hour wait for a table. This prompted an unscheduled visit to Torchy’s Tacos (to be reviewed at a later date). Our arrival today was met with open arms and fanfare… or an 11 year old host who kind of, sort of cared if we got a table.

The taco menu, which for some reason is part of the breakfast menu, featured ten U-shaped delicacies; from your typical Al Pastor to the more alarming Chicharron¹. After a round of drinks and an unusually long wait after our order was placed, the food arrived.

Vegetarians Don’t Eat Meat – This is a hearty taco! It has everything – a tortilla, mushrooms, cheese, cow… no wait, it doesn’t have any cow. Well, it does have mushrooms, and plenty of them. This tortilla was bursting with big chunks of the size increasing fungus, all held together with an appropriate amount of Monterey Jack cheese. After taking my virgin bite, I instantly reached for the salt – some people at the table added lettuce and a spoonful of guacamole.

I hope you don’t take that statement as a testament that the flavor. I think that it, for me personally, was just more subdued to what I am used to as far as biting into a taco which is filled with meat and spices. As vegetarian tacos go, the freshness and quality of the ingredients was as good as one could hope for – but if a brontosaurus came up and asked me to recommend a taco, I would be more apt to point them to the Fried Avocado taco over at Torchy’s, which is literally like two blocks away. (again, review coming soon).

By the end of the experience, I must say that I had a great time. The group got a huge table out on the patio and the sun wash shining with a nice cool breeze. The service left something to be desired, and my buddy Dwayne’s food came out incorrect the first time. This would have really rubbed me the wrong way if it wasn’t for the sweet, sweet tunes playing on the outdoor speakers.

This was the second time that I have been to Polvos; the first of which I ordered the mixed grill fajitas. If you are a carnivore and headed to this establishment, I would urge you in that direction. If you fancy your meals to contain more veggies than that of meat, I really feel that you will enjoy these Monterey Jack & Mushroom tacos. The flavor really is tasty (after you season to your own specifications) and the chunks of mushrooms are so big and flavorful that if you close your eyes, hold your breath… and hum quietly, you might even convince yourself you are eating meat!

¹ – All I can say to those at the table was that the waiter warned you!

Cowboy Taco

The second stop on the Tacogasm 2007 Tour brought us to a local stomping ground of mine. Taco Deli is one of my favorite taco eateries in Austin, so going here to eat was nothing new for me. With the exception of two tacos on the menu, I have made my belly happy with everything on the board. The exceptions being the Fish Tacos, as I am not a big fan of fish in general, and the Cowboy Taco – because it contains corn. Knowing the ridicule I would have gotten if I attempted to have the corn left off my order, I just decided to suck it up and enjoy the experience.

When It’s Good Being Thin – As Linda pointed out almost immediately, the flour tortillas that The Deli use contain almost a zen like balance of flavor, texture and elasticity; all in a somewhat thin packaging. I am a fan of this because I don’t like it when the tortilla is so thick that it detracts from the tasty innards of my U-shaped meal. I have never asked about the possibility of having my taco wrapped in a corn shell, but at the same time I never felt the need to.

Lots Of Cow In My Boy – As with all of The Deli’s tacos, this one was overflowing with a mixture of fresh and tasty fillings. I generally use a fork to eat out half of what’s inside before I attempt to pick up my meal, but I tend to take small bites. Everything contained inside – beef tenderloin, caramelized onions, grilled corn, roasted peppers, guacamole, and queso fresco, were perfectly balanced with nothing over powering the other. The beef was of good quality and well seasoned, presenting itself in big, tender chunks.

Being a regular patron here, there are a couple things that I can pass on. Everything is made fresh daily – from the Mole to the incredible Dona sauce (blended jalapeño salsa). This being the case, the taste of items can vary. As in the mole sauce, some days it is spicy and others mild. I personally like this however some may find the lack of consistency an issue. Also, there is no alcohol served… even beer! Come pre-lubed or be prepared to go out for some drinks after (if that’s your thing).

Being a big fan of BBQ and meat in general, I had high hopes for what turned out to be the first stop in the Tacogasm 2007 Tour. These ‘Smoked Beef Brisket’ tacos came served up two ways: wrapped in a regular soft flour tortilla, or grilled on both sides to form a more crunchy alternative. Since Texas Monthly didn’t specify which one it was endorsing, and to be fair, I had one of each for maximum belly satisfaction. Thus, this tortilla review will be broken down in to two parts.

The Big Softy – A nice touch with this option was the fact that they did heat up the rather uninspired flour tortilla. It was soft and a bit chewy, and while the flavor was adequate, there was nothing real special about this taco’s outer wrapper. This was not an entirely bad thing as it left my pallet more open for the smoked brisket; the whole reason for this taco’s existence.

With A Crunch – At first I was a little taken back by the size of the taco after it was grilled. It had more shrinkage then the collective male attendance at this seasons first anual Polar Bear Swim. I also was a bit put off by how greasy the tortilla got from it’s adventure on the grill. It looked, felt, and tasted like it was more fried then grilled.

Now that we got that out of the way we can move on to the heart and soul of this dish; the smoked brisket. If you are tired of reading at this point, I’ll spare you any more suspense. The beef was dry. And I know you are saying aloud right now, “Of course the meat is dry, it’s smoked!” – but I have to disagree. I just had a nice smoked steak a week ago at a buddy of mines house and it was not only smokey tasting and delicious, it was also very tender and juicy. My belly was happy when it found it’s way down my gullet. The beef last night in my tacos, not so much.

Perhaps they were having an off night over at Matt’s El Rancho. In retrospect, the place was jam packed. But I tend to, on a whole, get better quality food and service from a restaurant that is busy and on it’s toes over one that just has a few patrons. I have been in Austin for almost 10 years now and this was my first outing to Matt’s. Maybe one day I will make it back there and give the tacos another shot. Until then however, this first stop in the Tacogasm 2007 Tour gets a thumb down…. now those margaritas on the other hand!

While checking out at the grocery store last week I came across an issue of Texas Monthly which featured a cover story of “The 63 Tacos You Must Eat Before You Die”. After reading through the enormous list of mouth watering delicacies such as Chicken Campesinos, Pork Cubano, and even a Sauteed Lobster concoction, I compiled a list of the local places here in Austin.

For those of you that don’t know, I ♥ tacos. I’m already a regular at Taco Deli, and expect to have the rest of the tacos listed below in my belly in no time.

• 05. Monterey Jack and Mushroom ( Polvos )
• 09. Pork al Pastor ( Curra’s Grill)
• 13. Pork al Pastor ( Fonda San Miguel )
• 15. Beef Fajita ( Las Manitas )
• 22. Shredded Chicken ( Evita’s Botanitas )
• 39. Brisket ( (Matt’s) El Rancho )
• 52. Cowboy Taco ( Tacodeli )
• 56. Steak ( Mexcellent Texas Grande Tacos )